this mini trip through parts of south america has had me amazed, underwhelmed, breathless (both because of some stunning scenery and the trek at altitude to machu picchu) and puzzled.
similar to the contradictions of rio, pelourinho, the historical centre of salvador with its colourful baroque-style architecture and cobbled streets, is an enigma. many of the buildings were created during the portuguese dominion with slave labour (both indigenous people and people of african descent) and the city is named after an instrument of torture - the pillory.
pelourinho has been recognised by unesco as a world heritage site and was restored in the 1990s. it is mucho touristic.
i acquired a street map and while i looked at pretty pictures, read some information and stroked my chin the lady behind the counter started to scribble on the paper and told me to avoid parts of the city (the same thing happened at my hostel).
it´s quite bizarre, you have the main square, with it´s beautifully crafted cathederal, museums, churches and less beautiful visitors, and two streets away (less than 300 metres from my hostel) is a no-go zone.
i´ve been warned about all manner of things on this trip (even before i booked it). but i´m not one to believe the hype, and most of the ´dangers´ were either greatly exaggerated, didn´t exist or i´m just plain luckier than richard ashcroft - that´s two music references in one paragraph.
so my feet took me away from the centre, naturally, but very quickly i began to feel uneasy, being watched from windows and corners as i meandered down the narrow cobbled street. i didn´t get far before a group of locals started screaming at me to change direction, pointing aggressively and shaking their heads. i obliged and headed back to join the rest of the tourists, again naturally.
it´s low season in pelourinho and as soon as the bus doors opened i was pounced upon by those trying to earn their 10 per cent commission for frogmarching gringos (original meaning: green go home - relating to the american callers but now used less inaffectionately) to hostels. i said ´nao obrigado´ but was then offered a variety of herbs and powders and this young man didn´t look like he was interested in my culinary skills.
to be perfectly honest, i felt safer in rio´s favelas.
that said, i met a nice chap (below) and had a good night playing cards and dominoes (they call it bones), drinking beer, eating barbecued meat (not sure what that was exactly) and listening to live street music.

i´m now unwinding on the soft beaches of morro de sao paulo, tinharé. as it´s low season it´s fairly quiet and the further you walk around the coast the quieter it gets. i have a double room with en suite, a hammock on the beach and a breakfast of breads, cheeses, eggs, fruit, suco, cake and as much coffee as one can drink… for the equivalent of 10 quid. it´s also refreshing not to have to deal with roads as goods are pushed around the island in wheelbarrows.
here´s where i swam today:

and here are the places i´ve managed to cram in to my trip in south america:
ecuador:
quito
upper amazon basin
banos (sort of)
cuenca
peru:
mancora, huanchaco and huacachina (the oasis, where i hopped on a dune buggy and went sandboarding)
lima
pisco
nazca
arequipa/colca canyon
cuzco and the sacred valley
the lares trek, machu picchu
puno/lake titicaca
bolivia:
copacabana
la paz (where i survived the ´death road´ on a mountain bike - i have a dvd to prove it, along with the fact that i´m still breathing. plus i got to view the lunar valley on a quad bike)
salar de uyuni (salt flats and lagoons. bolivia has been a real eye-opener, the landscape is truly breathtaking)
potosi
sucre
santa cruz
brazil:
pantanal
bonito
foz do iguaçu (the falls from both the argentinian and brazilian sides)
paraty
iIha grande (beautiful island)
rio de janeiro (not taken by copacabana, the areas of ipanema and leblon are much more pleasant)
salvador
morro de sao paulo
i reckon i´ll be back for suriname, colombia, chile, argentina and uruguay. lots of love everyone x